Vivarium Setup
A design for beginner to master

By Darryl Sherman

      The ability to maintain high levels of humidity and proper temperatures is crucial in maintaining a dart frog terrarium. Almost every dart frog enthusiast has a different method of building a suitable environment for his or her darts. I will describe my method of maintaining proper temperature and adequate ventilation without loss of humidity while comparing it to other methods and options.
      When starting with darts simple is best; the quarantine tank for example is the easiest of dart frog enclosures. The most common container for a quarantine tank is a plastic shoebox, they are inexpensive, easy to clean, and safe for the frogs. I however use clear acrylic containers made by Rubbermaid so I can view my frogs even while they are quarantined. The basic setup for either container is the same moistened paper towel, plant (pathos is a good choice) or other item the frogs could use to hide in. Because the container is sealed, the humidity will remain high as water evaporates from the towel. I do not use lights or a heat source because the internal temp is difficult to maintain in such a small space. This tank design is good because the environment can be easily maintained and kept clean. A quarantine tank is a necessity even for the master tank builder as juveniles and sick frogs can be kept here for observation. One caution because these containers are small and seal air in, a build up of CO2 is possible. Opening the lid once a day can assure this does not become a problem. Once you understand this you are ready to begin building a larger more elaborate vivarium.
      Keeping with the “simple is best” philosophy the next step is the basic planted vivarium. First thing is selecting a good container, depending on how much you want to spend there are many choices here. The most basic container is probably the 10-gallon aquarium, which is well suited for no more than two adult frogs. Most breeders use tanks of this size because they are inexpensive and take up less room. A good rule of thumb is no more than one adult frog per 5 gallons. I use 29-gallon front opening aquariums they are a bit larger for some nice artistic freedom with plantings and wood, plus front access makes it easier to maintain and photograph the frogs. Topped with a full glass top or partially ventilated (I would not use full screen tops as they provide too much ventilation and make it difficult to contain humidity) provides a perfect enclosure for darts. Once you have decided on a container the main item that can make or break you terrarium is the substrate. Most hobbyists use different layers of substrate in their tanks to facilitate drainage. I don’t prefer this method because I often change the plants in my tanks causing the layers to mix. I find Orchid Bark to be the best substrate; it is available at most pet and home improvement stores at very reasonable prices. Orchid bark drains easily with daily misting decomposes more slowly than most other substrates while providing adequate surface area to produce humidity. Another easy to find substrate is cypress mulch it is usually less expensive than orchid bark however I find it breaks down fast, often contains pests (usually worms), and finer particles will stick to your frogs skin. Sphagnum moss is also an excellent substrate, it can even be used in a quarantine tank instead of paper towel, it often maintains a more acidic PH than other substrates that discourages bacteria growth, but I find it less aesthetically pleasing than orchid bark. Plants and aquarium decoration is largely up to the tank designer many tropical plants thrive in vivariums asking questions at your local green house will give you a head start on selecting good plants. Traits to look for in terrarium plants are: med to low light requirements, slow growth, and tolerable of high humidity. Moss looks beautiful in tanks but many northern US mosses have trouble growing in lighted tanks ordering tropical mosses can be very rewarding. For decoration you can use a variety of driftwoods or any fallen timbers, rocks, and even plastic fish or reptile décor found at most pet stores. Finally I use an 18” fluorescent fixture to provide light for viewing and plant growth. It may take some testing to decide what size, wattage, and type of bulb to use for your tank to maintain temperature and adequate light levels for plant growth (remember the frogs do not require supplementary light). For example, if you choose a higher wattage you would need to place it further from the tank to prevent the tank from over heating (most fluorescents are lower wattage and provide a bright but cool full spectrum light). The lighting provides several functions some not as obvious as others. At this point you know that lights illuminate the tank and provide a heat source but they also control humidity levels. They help humidity levels by evaporating water from the substrate which conversely allows it to escape through any ventilation used in your tank. This makes lighting a critical item to master in order to achieve a balanced environment. This type of tank although simple is adequate to house darts indefinitely.
      Many master tank builders include water features in their tanks as this creates an appealing look. It however is one of the most difficult set-ups.